The design of the upper cage allows for the integration of a 2" focuser, a 5-position filter slide assembly (48 mm photographic or 2" astronomical filters), a 4-vane spider, and an industry-standard secondary mirror holder - all in an attractive, lightweight, yet rigid, assembly. When finished, the upper cage reveals the most exposed hardware of any individual component, but not so that it detracts from the overall appearance or functionality of the telescope. The addition of an optical finder scope and/or a unit finder, such as a Telrad, is easily accommodated.
The TeleKit, not unlike any reflector, must be collimated prior to each use. To this end it would be nice to have thumbscrews instead of setscrews for adjusting the tilt of the secondary mirror. This is currently only available for secondaries that are 3.1" (minor axis) or larger. I just have visions of dropping an allen wrench onto the primary some cold, dark night.
The filter slide is a wonderful accessory, but I would like to see a couple of improvements - one is something I will incorporate, the other is a design change. The knob that is used to move the filter slide is identical in size to the focuser knobs. Given their close proximity, I find myself moving the slide when attempting to fine tune the focus. I will probably 'modify' the filter knob so that it feels different than the focuser knobs. My filter slide does not 'click' into position when moving the slide between filter positions. This can be adjusted, but I believe the focuser has to be removed to accomplish this task.
The upper truss clamps are a pleasure to use, providing smooth, positive clamping while securing the upper cage assembly to the truss poles. A small dot (paint, marker or a sticker) applied to the inside of one of the upper fastener plates and its corresponding mount block ensures that the cage is always installed in the same orientation, thereby lessening the amount of adjustments necessary during collimation.

The truss poles are quite durable, with their pre-installed shrink-tubing skin. I highly recommend a storage case to ensure the poles and fasteners are protected and that one is not accidentally left behind. The nylon truss pole case available from AstroSystems is a worthwhile investment, as is the upper cage case. The included light shroud is attractive and functional. The manual suggests placing a small piece of Velcro 'hook' on the poles to assist with securing the shroud. My kit only had enough Velcro to apply the recommended size (½" x 1") to four poles, so a quick trip to Home Depot remedied this situation. The shroud stays in place until you decide to move it.
In another attempt to facilitate collimation, I numbered my truss poles. Each of the four lower truss mount blocks (and clamps) are stamped with a number to ensure they are assembled correctly. I applied a sticker with a number (1 through 4) to the inside of each pole. During setup it is a simple task to match each set of poles to their mating block - thereby minimizing collimation efforts substantially. During assembly I installed the lower truss mount blocks from one to four, in a clockwise direction. My truss pole 'sets' are now numbered 1-2, 2-3, 3-4 and 1-4. Assembly and collimation are both quick and easy.

The mirror box is very well designed - from its finger joints, to the absence of exposed hardware, to the location of the lower truss mount blocks on the inside - it is aesthetically pleasing, as well as functional. The finger joinery, combined with the spoked altitude bearings, make for a very nice looking telescope. The use of teflon and roller bearings ensure smooth, yet positive, motions. When properly balanced I noticed no interference from stiction, drifting or backlash whether pointed at the zenith or near the horizon. The mirror cover incorporates an unobstructed, off-axis opening with hinged cover - perfect for planetary use or to accommodate the use of a solar filter.
The tailgate design of the mirror cell allows for easy access. The same sized cell is used for either 12½" or 13.1" mirrors, so space is a little tight with a 13.1" mirror. During the initial setup, I could not adjust the tilt of the primary mirror to achieve proper collimation. Closer inspection revealed that the mirror was binding on the lower (centered) location post. After re-adjusting the sling, the mirror was able to seat properly. Regarding the sling, I think the design could be improved by incorporating a threaded bolt at each end, instead of the current method of attaching one end with a wood screw and a finish washer. The integration of a cooling fan, and its related batteries and recharging circuitry, earns high marks. Overall, the mirror cell is very nicely designed while being quite easy to assemble. The 9-point flotation, as well as the mirror transport posts, ensure consistent performance from your optic.

The rocker box, like the mirror box, uses finger joinery without exposed hardware. After finishing with four coats of spar urethane, I decided to paint the inside (bottom surface and the lower 1" of the sides) with Krylon ultra flat black paint. Unlike most Dobs, which use teflon against laminate for smooth movements in azimuth, this system foregoes the teflon for a set of nine roller bearings. The result is a very smooth movement... maybe too smooth. This is where the azimuth brake comes in. Except that I could not get mine to work as described in the manual. It seemed that turning the knob only allowed it to move in one direction. My solution was to remove the nut from the outboard side of the brake pad (where it would ride in a small slot). This allows me to move the brake (inboard or outboard) by simply pulling or pushing on the knob. The weight of the telescope keeps it from moving once adjusted.
In yet another nice design element, the pivot bolt is already drilled for the installation of an encoder. Likewise, the design of the altitude bearings takes the future installation of digital setting circles into consideration.

Also included with the TeleKit are a set of transport handles. An optional item with other scopes, they are quite useful for easily moving the combined rocker and mirror boxes.

One question I am often asked is: How much did it cost? The total cost, including the TeleKit itself, the mirrors, Telrad, finder scope, Sky Commander, Feathertouch focuser, equatorial platform, upper cage case, truss pole case, tools, supplies, all shipping costs, and any taxes was almost $4,500. I think it's appropriate to point out that one does not enter into such a project if the goal is to save money over a commercially produced telescope, for that is probably not going to happen. Rather, one gains satisfaction from assembling their scope, with the end result being a unique instrument. I know that I thoroughly enjoyed the entire project. My woodworking is nowhere near that of the craftsmen at Starmaster or Obsession, but I enjoy using the TK-13 immensely.